ELOS – Photoepilation

IPL+RF hair removal is a method of hair removal that uses intense pulsed light. The technique is based on the fact that melanin, the pigment in hair that is concentrated in the hair shaft and follicle, absorbs light waves. Under the influence of thermal waves, the blood in the capillaries that nourish the hair bulb coagulates. As a result, the hair follicle is deprived of nutrients and dies, and the hair falls out.

Mechanism of action

When light energy is absorbed by hair shafts, various reactions occur in the subcutaneous tissues, the primary one being a thermal reaction. As a result, the tissue heats up to a high temperature, which leads to the destruction of the hair and hair follicle. Therefore, the IPL+RF hair removal process is called thermolysis (thermo—temperature, lysis—destruction), and from a scientific point of view, IPL+RF hair removal is correctly referred to as photothermolysis.

Light waves are absorbed with varying intensity, depending on hair color. Hair color depends on the amount of melanin present in the hair and hair follicle. The darker the hair color, the more melanin it contains. Therefore, in IPL+RF hair removal, a light source with a wavelength that is most strongly absorbed by melanin and least by other pigments—which are present in the skin to some extent—is used. This selective effect is commonly referred to as selective photothermolysis.

During selective photothermolysis, the hair is heated to 70–80 degrees Celsius, killing all cells in the hair follicle, including the cells of the hair papilla, so hair growth does not resume. In other cases, the hair follicle is not destroyed but is significantly damaged, resulting in its atrophy, disruption of the natural hair growth cycle, and a reduction in hair thickness and pigmentation.

Complications following IPL+RF hair removal

Burns. These occur when treating tanned skin, which has a high melanin content, as well as thin, dry, or sensitive skin, when light pulses are applied at a high light energy flux density.

Folliculitis. Occurs in people suffering from hyperhidrosis, as well as in those who overuse water treatments (swimming pools, saunas, baths) in the first few days after a photoepilation session.

Acne-like reactions. Most likely to occur in young patients with dark skin tones. Most often, these acne-like rashes resolve without treatment within a week.

Exacerbation of herpes infection. Common in cases where patients have previously had herpes on the treated skin area. To prevent this, cosmetologists recommend taking antiviral medications several days before the scheduled procedure.

Allergic reactions. These occur in people prone to allergies to sunlight or to the anesthetics used during photoepilation. They manifest as various forms of dermatitis, hives, and are accompanied by itching.

Eye damage, decreased visual acuity. This is possible only if patients did not use special protective equipment (special goggles, metal contact lenses) during the session. It most often occurs during photoepilation in the eyebrow area.

Skin pigmentation disorders. These result from skin burns and manifest as light spots on dark skin.

Scars (atrophic, hypertrophic, normotrophic, keloid). These are a consequence of skin burns and most often form on the neck and lower jaw area.

Gray hair. This occurs extremely rarely in practice. In this case, gray hair begins to grow in place of natural hair.

Hyperhidrosis, bromhidrosis (abnormal sweating in the previously treated area). This is explained by the fact that sweat glands are also damaged when hair follicles are damaged.

Malignant skin transformation. This occurs when intense light exposure targets pigmented nevi (moles), papillomas, and other skin growths.

Immediately after the procedure, effects such as swelling and redness of the treated skin areas occur. This is accompanied by pain. The duration of these effects depends on the intensity of the light energy used during hair removal and on the color, density, and thickness of the hair. If the discomfort does not subside within a couple of hours, local cooling and pain relievers are used. The recovery period after IPL+RF hair removal lasts about 5–7 days. During this period, it is best to avoid using cosmetics and refrain from visiting the pool, sauna, or steam room.